Passion fruit tart

by Eddy Van Damme on February 3, 2010

passion fruit tart

I like flavors with a strong character, the kind which hold their own when they are paired with other distinct flavors. One of my favorites, passion fruit falls exactly in this category, not timid but full of life and temperament. Passion fruit works tremendously well with numerous combinations. It perfectly balances desserts which may have components on the sweet side and it perfectly allows for layering a multitude of strong flavors.

flourless sponge cake

Interestingly enough, when used correctly, passion fruit with its prominent aroma and flavor will allow softer flavors to shine thru. Sometimes even enhance, one good example is the combination of passion fruit and apple. In an apple dessert, using the right amount of passion fruit will improve a subtle apple flavor by the presence of passion fruit.

passion fruit cream

Certainly passion fruit and chocolate work gloriously together and this is what I have done in this tart. A prebaked chocolate tart shell with a layer of flourless chocolate sponge cake and topped with passion fruit crème and berries. It’s a combination which would work perfectly for a Valentine’s dessert. Good flavors which appeal to many taste buds

Getting it all together!

Start by making the chocolate tart dough. Besides using it for tarts you can also use it for homemade chocolate sandwich cookies or chocolate ice cream sandwiches. Oh really you ask? Oh yes I say! The recipe is in the On Baking book on page 390. If you do not have the book, then use the tart dough used for Meyer lemon tarts. If desired you can make the tart dough weeks ahead and simply freeze it. The tart does not necessarily need the flourless sponge cake layer but if you are like me and like multiple layers of textures then include it. Do not to confuse flourless chocolate sponge cake with a dense flourless chocolate cake. Find flourless sponge cake on page 387 in On Baking.

The passion fruit crème is delicious and well worth the search for passion fruit puree. Oftentimes it can be easily found in Latin food stores in the freezer.

passion fruit tarts

Passion fruit cream

Yield: for 2 tarts of 8-9 inch diameter (20-24 cm)

1Cup (8 oz) Heavy cream 240 g
¾ Cup (6 oz) Passion fruit puree 180 g
¼ cup + 1Tbsp (2.5 oz) Extra fine granulated sugar (a) 75 g
5 (5) Egg yolks 5
¼ Cup (2 oz) Extra fine granulated sugar 60 g
4 Tablespoons + 1 teaspoon (1 ¼ oz) Cornstarch 37 gram
½ Cup (4 oz) Milk, boiling 120 g
  1. In a saucepan bring the heavy cream, passion fruit and sugar (a) to a boil.
  2. In a separate bowl whisk the egg yolks until smooth. Add sugar (b) and whisk rapidly until smooth, add cornstarch and whisk smooth. Whisk in the boiling milk.
  3. Pour the egg yolk mixture into the boiling cream mixture and whisk rapidly to a boil. Boil for 1 minute and remove from heat. Cover the crème with plastic food film and place in an ice bath to quickly cool the passion fruit cream.

{ 4 comments }

High Altitude Baking

by Eddy Van Damme on February 1, 2010

High altitude baking

High Altitude Baking

About one hundred million Americans or about a third of the US population lives 3,000 feet above sea level and consequently bake in high altitude. Baking in these atmospheric conditions require adjustments made to recipes.

In high altitude, the air pressure is lower than at sea level. A lower amount of air pressure means that there will be less resistance on the leavening process, basically a cake, muffin or cookie will rise easier at high altitude than at sea level.  Knowing this, baking in high altitude requires adjustments of baking soda and baking powder and other factors.


Question relating to adjusting recipes:

I have heard of multiple ways of adjusting recipes when baking in high altitude, do I need to use all of these adjustments in one single recipe?

Chef Eddy: It may be possible to obtain great results by making only a single adjustment. It is usually best to start by making only one or two adjustments at a time and see how well it worked. In high altitude many microclimates exist and you may not have to adjust as much as someone who lives a quarter mile up the mountain from you. It is a good idea to keep a journal on which adjustments you made and if you were pleased with the outcome.

Question relating to mixing: Many recipes for cakes and cookies require mixing the batter until “light and fluffy”. Is this necessary in high altitude baking?

Chef Eddy: For high altitude baking, mixing until light and fluffy incorporates too many air cells. Air cells expand in the oven and are a contributor to leavening. Too much leavening results in a coarse textured product. In this environment mixing the butter and sugar until well combined is recommended.

High altitude baking tips

Question relating to oven temperatures: In high altitude, do I bake at the same oven temperatures as my recipe indicates?

Chef Eddy: Above 3,500 feet, it is usually best to bake about 25°F higher than at sea level. A higher baking temperature will “set” the product faster and prevent a weak or over leavened structure.

Question relating to leaveners: Do I use the same amount of baking powder and baking soda when baking in high altitude?

Chef Eddy: It is very important to reduce these leaveners. Between 3,000 and 3,500 Feet, reduce both leaveners by 1/8. (1 teaspoon of leaveners is now 7/8 teaspoon). Between 3,500-5,000 feet reduce each teaspoon of leaveners by one 1/4. (Each teaspoon of leaveners is now ¾ teaspoon). Between 5,000-6,000 feet use half of the leaveners (1 teaspoon of leaveners is now ½ teaspoon). 6,500 and above use one fourth of the original amount used (1 teaspoon of leaveners is now ¼ teaspoon)

Question relating to sugar amounts: Do I use the same amount of sugar when I bake in high altitude?

Chef Eddy: Between 3,000 and 5,000 feet above sea level it is usually best to reduce the sugar by 1 Tablespoon per cup, or ½ oz for every 8 oz of sugar used. Above 5,000 feet reduce the sugar by 2 tablespoons per cup or 1 oz per 8 oz. The reduction of sugar will allow the product to properly bake and create a better texture.

Question relating to oven temperatures: Since it is recommended that I bake at a higher temperature in high altitude will my products bake sooner than the recipe indicates?

Chef Eddy: Yes, for every 10 minutes of baking time, reduce the baking time by 2-3 minutes. (If a product is baked at sea level for 20 minutes, in high altitude it may be ready at 15-16 minutes.)

high altitude baking cakes

Question relating to liquids: Do I use more milk, cream, orange juice or other liquid in muffins, cakes and cookies?

Chef Eddy: Yes, flour at high altitudes is drier and will absorb more liquid. In high altitude the evaporation rate during the baking process is higher and the extra liquid will help with dryness. At 3,000 feet use an extra 2 Tablespoon for each 8 oz liquid. For each additional 1,000 feet, use one half extra tablespoon of liquid. Baked goods such as pie crust or crackers require only a little extra water added to the recipe.

Question to whipping eggs: If my recipe calls for stiff whipped egg whites or well beaten eggs should I whip as described?

Chef Eddy: It is best to under whip egg products. Air incorporation is important at sea levels but too much air whipped into a batter at high altitude may make the cake rise too high and then collapse.

Question about filling cake or muffin pans: Should I fill my cake pans two thirds full and muffin tins ¾ full as recommended in my recipe?

Chef Eddy: Cakes will do better if the pans are only filled half full. Muffins will be better if filled 2/3 full. This way they will set faster and preventing collapse.

Question about flour: Should I consider using flour with higher protein-gluten content such as bread flour?

Chef Eddy: Gluten helps to set the structure of many baked items. If despite making other adjustments you still have not the right result, consider using ¾ of all purpose and ¼ bread flour in your recipes.

Question about eggs: Should I use the same amount of eggs as the recipe calls for?

Chef Eddy: For every 3 eggs used in a recipe you can add an additional 1 yolk or 1 egg white. The egg product will help with the setting of the cake, muffins or cookies and provide a better texture.

{ 8 comments }

Almond macaroons with star anise and olive oil ganache

by Eddy Van Damme on January 26, 2010

almond macaroons

Although Gerbet macaroons are very much in vogue and are wonderful, equally delicious are the   almond macaroons with a crackly surface. Originated and named in France either Macaron craquelés or Macaron De Nancy.

Both types of above mentioned macaroons are made primarily from almonds, sugar and egg whites, however, they do differ a lot in flavor and texture. While the Gerbet macaroon has a perfectly smooth and even surface with a tender chewy texture, almond macaroons have a much firmer crunch with an undeniable chewy texture and a more clearly pronounced almond flavor.

If you’re like me and you like to amuse your taste buds once in a while with something special then flavor these macaroons with star anise. Star anise and almond is a superb and much underused combination. Some people associate anise with licorice because oftentimes these flavors are used in conjunction in confectionary. However, star anise is much more floral and less earthy if compared to licorice. When sandwiched with a silky ganache and served with perfect espresso, these macaroons become even more extraordinary.

Crackly almond macaroons are best made with good quality almond paste. Almond flour does not provide the highly desired crisp surface in these macaroons. When selecting almond paste make certain that you are buying a product which primarily contains almonds and not glucose or corn syrup. Almond paste with high corn syrup levels will make the macaroon batter too runny and the baked macaroons too sweet. The high quality and all natural almond paste I recommend (And these people do not pay me to write this) is made by love’n Bake and is available on multiple web sites.

how to pipe macaroons

These macaroons are great the day they are made but will easily last for several days. Keep them at room temperature in an airtight container for best texture and flavor.  Star anise is best ground fresh which can easily be done in a coffee grinder. If you absolutely do not like star anise, then consider adding 2 tablespoons instant coffee to the almond macaroon batter. The ganache filling is optional but it makes these macaroons truly special.

macaron de nancy

Almond macaroons | Macaron de Nancy

Yield: About 60

1 can (10 oz) Love’n Bake almond paste 300 g
1 ¼ Cup (10 oz) Extra fine granulated sugar 300g
½ teaspoon ( ½ tsp)) Ground star anise 2 g
3 ½ (3.5 oz) Egg whites 100 g
¼ teaspoon (1/4 tsp) Salt 1 g
1 teaspoon (1 tsp) Vanilla extract 5 ml
  1. In a stand up mixer fitted with a paddle attachment mix the almond paste and sugar for 2 minutes on medium speed. Add one egg white and mix two minutes. Add another egg white and mix until the mixture becomes smooth and no lumps remain.
  2. Scrape the bowl and mix smooth ensuring no lumps are visible.
  3. Add the remaining egg whites, salt and vanilla.
  4. Using a piping bag fitted with a medium tip, pipe the batter on parchment lined baking sheets in even small mounds. Dust with powdered sugar.
  5. Allow the macaroons sit for at least 60 minutes at room temperature before baking, this will ensure a crisp and crackly crust.
  6. Bake in a 350 F (180C) preheated oven until light golden, about 12-14 minutes.
  7. When cooled sandwich the macaroons with olive oil ganache.

Ganache with olive oil, filling for macaroons

1 Cup (8 oz) Heavy cream 240 g
¼ Cup (2 oz) Invert sugar http://www.eddyvandammeusa.com/2009/11/invert-sugar/ 60 g
12 oz (12 oz) Chocolate 56-58% cocoa 360 g
2 Tbsp (1 oz) Olive oil 30g
  1. Heat the cream and invert sugar to 185F (85C). Remove from heat and add the chocolate. Using an immersion blender blend smooth.
  2. Gradually pour in the olive oil and blend well. Allow to crystallize at room temperature.

{ 5 comments }

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